Tips for Upcycling Furniture (like IKEA®) in Five Simple Steps
This easy furniture hack takes an ordinary kitchen island and transforms it into a versatile piece with a rustic feel.
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How to Upcycle Ready-to-Assemble Furniture (like IKEA) Step-By-Step
How to Upcycle Ready-to-Assemble Furniture (like IKEA) Step-By-Step
Tools
- Screwdriver
- Plastic sheets
- Drill
- Putty knife
- 120-grit sanding sponge or sandpaper
- Tack cloth
- Carbide cutting tool
- Straightedge
- Router and laminate trimming bit
- Cleanup solvent (mineral spirits)
- Gloves (optional)
Materials
- IKEA Tornviken Kitchen Island (28 3/8 inches long x 20 ½ inches wide)
- DAP® Plastic Wood-X™ All-Purpose Wood Filler
- Rust-Oleum® Chalked Ultra Matte Spray Paint (in your color of choice)
- Weldwood ® Original ® Contact Cement Spray Adhesive
- White or marble laminate sheet
- ½- inch wood dowels
- Handle for drawer
It’s easy to understand the appeal of ready-to-assemble (RTA) furniture. Cost-conscious shoppers love the prices, and the simple designs look good anywhere. It’s no wonder do-it-yourselfers have taken to upcycling RTA pieces to make them even more versatile and full of character. To show you how easy upcycling is, we took an IKEA kitchen island and topped it with laminate. Then we painted the rest with chalk paint and added new hardware to soften its appearance. Follow these step-by-step directions for the island or try them on another piece, like an IKEA bedside table.
Step 1: Disassemble and Drill New Holes
Disassemble the island and remove the knob from the drawer face. Mark the screw positions for the new handle and drill new holes.
Step 2: Patch and Sand Existing Hole
Fill the old screw hole of the drawer face with DAP Plastic Wood-X All-Purpose Wood Filler. It has a dry time indicator that goes on pink and dries natural so you know when it’s ready to be sanded and stained or painted. Press the filler into the hole, overfilling it slightly. (For holes deeper than ¼ inch, apply several thin layers of filler, letting them dry between applications.) Lightly sand the drawer face and all other components with 120-grit sandpaper. Wipe off any dust with a tack cloth.
Step 3: Spray-Paint Components
Spray-paint all the components, including the underside of the island top and its two side edges (the front and back edges will be painted after laminating it). We used Rust-Oleum Chalked Ultra Matte Spray Paint in Serenity Blue but choose whatever color works for you.
Set up the area where you’ll be painting: Provide proper ventilation and use plastic sheeting to protect surrounding surfaces from overspray. Clean all surfaces by washing with soap and water and let dry. Shake the can for one minute after the mixing ball begins to rattle before using and occasionally during use. Holding the can 10–12 inches above the surface, spray a light coat in a back-and-forth motion, slightly overlapping each stroke while keeping the can moving. Let it dry briefly, then spray on a second light coat. Make sure to follow the directions on the can for recoat and dry times.
BONUS TIP: Spray-paint the new handle to give the piece even more character. Rust-Oleum Universal® Spray Paint in Sunlit Brass nicely complements the Serenity Blue chalked paint.
Step 4: Cut Laminate
Measure and cut the laminate for the island top with a carbide cutting tool and a straightedge. Cut the laminate 1 inch larger overall than your measurements.
Step 5: Apply Contact Cement
DAP Weldwood Contact Cement Spray Adhesive is ideal for securing laminate to wood or, in this case, wood veneer. To use it, protect the surrounding area with plastic sheets, make sure the area has proper ventilation and wear eye protection. Shake the can for one to two minutes prior to use and occasionally during use. Spray the back side of the laminate as well as the top of the island, using a back-and-forth motion. Let it sit 5–10 minutes. Then, wearing a glove, lightly touch the contact cement. It’s ready if it’s tacky but doesn’t leave a residue on your glove.
Step 6: Position Laminate
Once the laminate makes contact with the island top surface, you won’t be able to move it, so you need to position it accurately. To help with that, place 1/2-inch wood dowels every three inches on the island top. These will keep the laminate from touching the surface while you’re positioning it. Set the laminate on the dowels, keeping in mind there will be a slight overlap on each edge. Remove the dowels one at a time, starting at one end, letting the laminate touch the surface.
Step 7: Press in Place
Use a scrap 2x4 wrapped in a rag to press down the laminate. Work from the center out to the edges. To avoid breaking the excess laminate, don’t press too hard at the edges.
Step 8: Trim Excess Laminate
After pressing the laminate in place, use a router with a laminate trimming bit to trim off any excess laminate at the edges.
Step 9: Finish Edges and Reassemble
Lightly sand the edges of the top. Wipe them down with a tack cloth and spray-paint them. When it’s all dry, assemble the island and attach the new hardware.